Mullumbimby, or Mullum as the locals call it, is as friendly a town as you will find anywhere.
I have been going to Mullum for about 49 years. The town has changed and grown. Still, the people who inhabit this village definitely have not. From my oldest memories Mullumbimby locals have always been welcoming and that is a quality that remains.
This year we stayed at the show grounds, very friendly caretaker nothing was a problem for them
Definitely worth a return visit
We stayed for 7 days at the campgrounds even though it was very wet.Nothing new, it has been wet almost everywhere we have been. We had been looking ahead to the Showgrounds markets that are held every Friday. It was a bleak, wet day and the expectations of the markets being on were low. Still, they breed them tough in Mullum. Most of the market people turned up at daybreak and set up regardless.
Mullum character
Market stall
Mushroom selection Mullum markets
Plant based food stall Mullum
The village is between the counterculture capital of New South Wales, Nimbin, and the Byron Bay coastal settlements. Mullumbimby is small in population. Yet, it is big in character. Locals describe Mullum as the biggest little town in Australia. In many ways, it lives up to that claim. A very active local arts scene art galleries, music festivals, there always seems to have something happening.
The girls were busking to advertise their performance later in the week at
and very popular it seems
Even with the wet weather, I always felt there was something to see or do. Mullum has plenty of clothes shops, mostly girls’ stuff. There is a very well-stocked organic food shop. Mullum also has a healthy alternate healing industry. Of course, the hotels and cafes are very well patronised.
Now, situated at the turn off to Mullum, they have captured the formula to a successful rest stop. They offer good food and coffee and the atmosphere is always friendly.
The famous Uncle Toms pie shop was a stop always eagerly anticipated. As young surfers, we traveled to the Byron region, especially on those cold winter trips. It can be a very busy place when the tourist buses arrive.
Mullumbimby’s history goes back to the mid eighteen hundreds. During that time, timber was king. Farming helped sustain the future and is still one of Mullum’s key industries. There are still some historical sites and buildings that go back to the early 1900s. one of standouts is the Mullumbimby hydroelectric power station, built in 1924. Other significant sites include the Federation bridge over the Brunswick River and beautiful examples of early settlement homes. Some of these homes have been restored, while others have fallen victim to time and flood.
Federation bridge
Old tree Mullumbimby
old house destroyed during flood
Historic house Mullumbimby
Historic house Mullumbimby
House garden
History Federation bridge
Hotel Mullumbimby
We have moved on to Jones’s gully at Crows nest, Queensland. I am positive Mullum will call again. We will find more to keep us coming back yet again.
This is our second visit to Urbenville NSW. We are staying at the forestry rest area on the road to Woodenbong. It is our preferred campground. As it happens, it is the only one available because the showgrounds are still closed due to very wet conditions.
In 2024 we had the place to ourselves, the weather was fine and cool and the facilities were clean and well maintained
2025 was definitely different. The weather was wet as it had been every month since January. The grounds here are very wet and boggy in a few places.
Which is a shame the camp grounds are well set out and a postcard pretty. When we arrived there were no other campers so we had the pick of the sites, and as it got wetter the choices diminished quickly. We like this little village, but it has changed from our last visit. You get the feel of neglect. The facilities at the campground were not usable. They had not been cleaned in a long while. It was the same with the public toilets in town. We stayed a few days then moved on to Woodenbong, about 20k down the road to dry out.
Have you ever traveled past a place and thought, you know we should stop there one day? Well, the camp grounds at 1770 on the beach is one of those for us. We have been to the town on several occasions but never stopped here. In fact, I came here with a group of surfing friends in about 1965. But that’s a story for another time, maybe. But anyway, thanks to cyclone Alfred this year, we decided to backtrack from our digs at Gympie. We tried to find a dry spot to wait for the weather to clear. This year, we were heading to the eastern southern highlands. Yeah well dry? We managed to drag some of the rain with us, but it was bearable considering what we went through getting here, floods, crocodiles and a cyclone that was determined to follow us all the way to the border
The Campground is really just a camp ground. There are plenty of larger sites for caravans and good spots near the water. Still, when it’s busy, there is not much room. The waterway looks promising for a thick fish population. I put in the effort but got absolutely no results. I did not talk to anyone who had any luck. We have been here enough to have seen sights a few times so what else is there to do but go shopping, not that there is a lot of choices, we did find a favorite little gift shop called “Discover 1770 and Agnes waters” worth a visit if you are in the area
The towns of 1770 and Agnes Waters offer more than just a couple of novelty stores. There are surf shops, chemists, and two grocery stores. You can also find fishing and boating options. There is even a golf club that provides a good challenge. The weather really dictated our activities. We spent most of our time reading and relaxing. When the weather permitted, we walked the foreshore. On one of these short walks, I started out wandering through the little cafe at the park entrance. I found myself in a group of mangroves. It was interesting to view the surrounding sand flats through the windows created by the gaps in the mangroves. Well, I thought so. Trying to photograph those scenes was challenging. It was more difficult than I thought because the camera tends to flatten the perspective. Photographing did fill the day.
Camp from the beach
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
Through the mangroves
That was our 2025 1770/Agnes Waters visit. Would we go back to the same camp grounds? Maybe, but we did enjoy ourselves. The rain has apparently moved on, so we are heading to Alstonville to catch up with friends. We also plan to reconnect with one of our special places.
Today we are sitting at Gympie waiting for cyclone Alfred to make up its mind about landfall and an apt time to publish this post as there will be plenty of debris created on our beaches.
Another visit to one of our favourite places Wreck rock, our fifth time here, in the very wonderful Endeavour national park Queensland, there are three camp areas here looking north towards Agnes waters is Flat rock and Middle rock and here we are at Wreck rock again. The weather has not been as kind this time as it has been just a bit of wind and some higher than usual tides, as usual the camp area is great very clean not so crowded only a couple of others and some day trippers, and the ever-present lace monitors.
We were here this time for a 8 days and I must say that the first time we were here I did not notice the problem that I am about to introduce you to but this is not a new thing here Im sure. IApart from the National parks the area is under the not so watchful eye of the Gladstone shire and maybe a bit of the Burnett region; The beaches and sand dunes on this stretch of coast are nursery for the green back and flat back turtles, so there are Turtle monitoring stations all along the beaches, and I have to say that this is the first time that we have been here and not had the volunteer’s camped here to monitor the nests.
This area is also the start of the real surfing beaches north of the New South Wales border in Queensland, so as well as the National parks rangers and the Turtle monitoring people there are plenty of surfers from Agnes waters to Bundaberg as well as travellers using the beaches.
So by now you are wondering what is this bloke getting to, well i’ll be blunt
the beaches that I mentioned at the start are THE MOST POLLUTED BEACHES THAT I HAVE SEEN in our travels around our great country. Not only polluted , but mistreated by most who visit here, on this visit I met a man who not only loves the area he actively cleans it up, which is more than I can say for most of the others I have previously mentioned.
The pollution I am talking about is Plastic and plenty of it, every day there is a new batch deposited by the high tide to collect not just a handful but bags fill , the photos are what we, Jim and I collected in about six days and from only around 300 METERS of beach,
Brittle micro plasticsJims collectionGathered by british touristsDay 1Day 2Day 2
I would like to apologise on behalf of Jim and I for only getting to such a small area but I am a few days short of seventy seven and Jim looks likes he shades me by a few years and its been hot. But what about the regulars, well according to a ranger that Jim spoke to the “beach” is not National Parks responsibility, more on that a bit later, on to the turtle nest monitors, I may be tarring a few people with the same brush here but this is my experience, last trip 2022 after myself and a couple of young campers had collected a few bags of rubbish, that the “turtle nest monitors had been driving there buggies through “ for a few days we were trying to dig out this very large piece of rope that had some trawl net around it, obviously buried by the high tide, we had excavated a fairly large hole in the sand around it but it was to heavy for three of us to pull out, the nest watchers were coming back from their watching and we tried to get the first buggy to stop: No go, one of the young men helping all but threw himself in front of the next one and with a lot of complaining I think the wine and bickies were out, he let us tie it to the buggy and we got half a trawl net out of the hole, he left us to get it to a place where it would not get washed back and could be retrieved.
Jim told me a similar story of last year where he had put four bags of plastic rubbish next to the park track, he had asked the ranger if he could dispose of it, ( sorry no can’t do that) but the ranger asked the turtle people to help, and they did but Jim got a lecture from one of them saying that they should not have to do this.
Wreck rock beachWreck rock beachWreck rock beach
To the users of the beach and ocean, some of this group has saddened me this week, first to travellers, I was walking down to start collecting from the high tide on the first day and passed a couple of young English tourists camping here, a brief chat and I told them what I was doing and the young lass said Oh good we have collected a lot of plastic bottles and rubbish and put it on the path for the ranger, bonus lovely people, but the locals, the surfers so disappointing, on the weekend a few of the Agnes Waters surfers were here to catch a wave, day one crap surf, so we were talking about the area and the lack of waves, I told them about how much plastic we had picked up and that there was so much more, very small bits floating in the tide line: So I asked them both if they would help with the plastic collection as it was their beach, surfer 1 said yes we see lots of the small bits out in the water all the time “its not good”, surfer 2 nods his head and says, you know there is a bit of a wave just near the rocks what do you think, and off they went to flounder around in a 2 foot chop.
Day two about half a dozen board riders ( not surfers) joined the other two, no takers on the clean up but their girlfriends who had a shade cover managed to bury their rubbish including two plastic bags in the sand below the high tide mark.
Jim and I will finish our stay here this afternoon by once again walking the tide line and picking up what we can, but this is not about people looking after the ocean and the beach, this stuff comes from the rivers and creeks around here and is deposited on this great beach, that is about 50 kilometres long and no one appears to be caring, not the council, not the National parks not the turtle people who cannot grasp the fact that when the turtles hatch they have to fight or eat their way past this crap, and the people who use the beach and Mother ocean for their pleasure don’t seem to care or give back
Its definitely not about people like Jim and I, It should be about you and others who don’t walk past a plastic bag or an old plastic oil bottle or drink bottle, or see a problem where plastic waste can be washed out to sea and end up on a deserted beach like this to break down in to the smallest pretty shiny colourful most harmful lure that the ocean can present to its occupants.
As Jim said to me this morning If you won’t participate, don’t talk about it, If you get to this bit and come to the conclusion that I’m just another nutter that overreacts to this type of issue, just delete the link and let me know that you have and you definitely won’t get another rant from me.
As we get older our views in events and history changes, well at least mine have, Anzac day comes and goes and up until about ten years ago, on Anzac day I reflected on the sacrifices that our military personnel made, and those that left families forever; My father served in the middle east as a very young man and made it through to settle in Australia, the conflict was never discussed between us and he really never turned out on Anzac day to my memory. Although he did on occasions share thoughts while watching war documentary’s that were common on early tv, even though the docos then were a bit graphic I have really never thought about how it must have felt to young men, to come from a peaceful land like ours and be taught to kill another human and to carry that out, and live with it mostly in silence.
On Anzac day I will be thinking about peace, and families, how mothers, fathers siblings from all around the globe are feeling about lost ones in war and the ones that have come home and have difficulty coming to grips with their experiences and, are lost. Wars are currently being fought in many parts of this earth, in all cases families are grieving at loosing loved ones, in so many places the war is generating more hatred such a sad cycle, the greed and need for control of others regardless of human life or suffering is almost without exception the cause.
Its unusual for me to put thoughts like this in print, so what started this, as my friends know I am an amateur photographer, and last week I saw three things that made me think about the misery that war brings, first I was photographing the entrance to a park in Lake Caregillo NSW and the entrance led to the local cenotaph, and It struct me as being so serine, and Anzac day there would be special, the other was while photographing in Hilston NSW at the entrance to their cenotaph was a list of names and I felt so sad because one family was represented so many times, and then there is the special tribute that the town of Hay has, reading the many plaques around the painted towers, you know that this town is proud of its people.
Lake Caregillo areaLake Caregillo areaAnzac day preperationsThe town that went to warSilo artThe town that went to warThe town that went to warSilo artHay
Burren Junction to Coonabarabran, not a long road but we were surprised by the amount of climbing we seemed to be doing, I was expecting a flatter area, although it is a easy and
Interesting drive there was not much action, but plenty of Emu around and some very large cotton farms on the way.
We arrived at Coonabarabran golf club, a bit after lunch time on Thursday; its a free bush camp with plenty of room for 30 or more vans, we had almost finished setting up, when I thought that I had better go down to the club house and let them know of our arrival, and I wanted to have a sqiz at the course. The staff had just started, so I signed in and commented that this was a good set up considering it was free, the young lass behind the bar then explained that it was not really free and I would have to pay $5.30, I was a bit surprised, she smiled and said of course you also get a beer for that price what are you having, thinking straight away, bugger! Jackie is up there setting up, well I paid for it didn’t I ? And only had a XXXX gold, really! Only one.
Well I finally escaped from there but on the way back I bumped into a couple of golfers unloading a buggy, and asked them who I had to see about playing in the comp on Saturday, one of them “Chris” (he had trouble maker written all over him) told me that all I had to do was front up at 11:O’clock and Bobs you uncle, having said that he asked me if I had played here before, “answer” negative, he then suggested that I grab my clubs and join them in the Thursday comp. Well there wasn’t much setting up left to do, and anyway why not, and we are out to make new friends. After 9 frustrating holes of golf, no help from my new mate Chris, a beer to test the Toheys old tap, then I wandered up to our site to find that there were now 10-15 new campers there, popular spot.
It is a bit cooler here than Townsville, but at least its not raining “yet”, very peaceful camp, Friday we are looking around Coonabarabran or (Coona) as the locals call it, really not much to do on good Friday, Just have a drive around.
Old farm house Coonabarabran
Every town has to have a pink houseCotton farm near Coonabarabran
Very old farm house in Black and whiteNew south wales history Coonabarabran
Like so many of the old New South wales towns the village of Coonabarabran, has a variety of homes although Coona, is mostly of the older variety. You really have to drive up to the lookout to get an idea of the size of the place. WE had a late start and it had not really warmed up by the time we ventured out to look, so being good Friday with nothing open we headed back to the camp, and besides I had to rest, a big day on the course tomorrow. What can I say about golf Thursday; I did not hit the greens, couldn’t putt, comp day, Billy came out to play 4th overall I met some great golfers, won a ball (closed club day visitors couldn’t win major prizes) gave the Toheys old tap a work out, back to camp to get ready for dinner in the clubhouse, in their very good Chinese restaurant.
PILLIGA POTTERY FARM
Pilliga pottery artPilliga pottery art
SUNDAY we are visiting Pilliga a region in New south wales known for its unique pine flooring timber cotton and so we find out some very classy pottery, the drive takes about 40 minutes and about 10K is dirt pretty good but you would not want to have to drive it after an inch of rain, Pilliga Pottery and farm comes as a bit of a surprise if you haven’t looked it up, Getting there you drive through scrubby red soil country then you start getting glimpses of this weird looking building through the trees.
Pilliga pottery housePilliga and Coonobarabran reigion
The farm gives you the impression that it is or was built a a community property, the web site says that it was built with community help, there are a lot of people working here and must live here, as there are no properties nearby and a few different nationalities serving and working around the place, given that it is a well maintained property and the pottery is excellent there is so much stock that there must be an outlet in a major city, a great place to visit.
pilliga pottery farmEntrancePilliga pottery artStone pitched farm houseTravellers in vansPilliga pottery artPottery at PilligaPilliga pottery artPilliga pottery artPottery farmPilliga pottery artThe green doorLunch at Pilliga farmPilliga pottery artThe wallPilliga potteryPilliga potteryPilliga pottery artPilliga pottery artPilliga NymphPilliga pottery art
Coonabarabran a great place to visit, we are in our way now to Lake Creegellio about 105k west, might get some fishing in there.
We had four great weeks in Alstonville New south wales, caught up with our friends and ex neighbours Leane and Ken, revisited the Alstonville bowls club. and had some success in getting some relief for Jackies hip and foot problem. Before leaving we had decided to visit the Artesian basin west of there, originally we were going to a couple but the extra weeks with Jacks Chiropractor means we will have to shorten this part of the journey. The drive was really uneventful easy going, the Amarok hauls our van easily, there’s not much to see on the way and on getting there we really had our pick of spots to camp, and as it turns out the next two days are free because the opening is not until Thursday which is the day we leave, the baths have just been refurbished and are in great condition not to hot and clean. Two days and nights really were not enough but we have to push on, nights are really great floating in the hot springs looking up at the stars, really special.
Burren JunctionBurren JunctionBurren Junction
On the last night we met a Burren Junction local, who gave us a run down on the town and some history about the local area, we were not originally going to drive the few Ks to the town but some of the things that this woman told us sort of got our interest, this town has a water problem in as much as there is only one bore to supply the town and not all houses have town water so some residents have to go to the local park and fill containers, she also said that most of the houses were shanties and anywhere else would have been condemned. So this town is one of the older towns in the northern region, the school headmasters house is over 150 years old and is heritage listed, the town cannot afford to put down a bore, but the NSW education department spent $200,000.0 renovating this house, there are between 35 and 40 students here, mostly from outlying cotton and wheat farms, she also told us to look for the tennis courts as they are ru down now but in times past state championships were held here.
Disused tennis courtsAnglican church and its guardiansSchool principals housepost officeBurren junction houseBurren junction houseBurren junction houseBurren junction houseBurren junction houseBurren junction houseBurren junction house
Moving on
The town was an eye opener, I know housing is scarce and times are hard in the west, but a town really has been abandoned by the NSW government, before we left we got to see the area burnt off by the fire brigade and a couple of great western sunrises and learnt a few things. Next stop Coonabarabran.
The Big orange in Gayndah was our only stop here The coffee and scones were very good nice friendly staff
Travellers in vans
.Gayndah is known as the citrus capital of Queensland and also the home of the Big Orange.
Visit between April and October to taste the fresh juice made from the citrus growing on the property.
Nanango
Nango, Queensland’s fourth oldest town and the second largest in the South Burnett, Nanango is a vibrant centre steeped in heritage while still retaining its tranquil rural charm.
The township started as early as 1848 when Jacob Goode established a traveller’s rest house at ‘Nooganida’ on the banks of Barker’s Creek on the Nanango run. By 1851 he had a licence to sell alcohol. Thus it was that Nanango, described as Queensland’s fourth-oldest town, came into existence around Goode’s Inn. It grew slowly as a stopping point for people passing through the area and as a recreation point for the shepherds and rural labourers who worked on the large holdings. In the 1860s when gold prospectors, brought to the area by the wealth of Gympie, found small deposits in the streams and gullies around the town. At one time the area’s population included 700 miners, many of whom were Chinese. In the 1880s there was some reef mining but the goldfields were short-lived, Today the town is a typical rural centre in rich poll hereford country. The local industries include beef and pork production, dairying and milk processing, timber, small crops, grapes and olives.
If you love a country market, Nanango has one of the biggest in South East Queensland. Held on the first Saturday of each month at the Nanango Showgrounds you’ll find something for everyone. friendly country town surrounded by vine scrublands and eucalypt forests enjoys cool summers and brisk winters. One of the things that I really like about older towns and villages is the history that is displayed by the buildings and in fracture, Nanango did not disappoint.
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
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Travellers in vans
Fourth oldest town in Queensland
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Travellers in vans
Nanango
Our next stop for a few days is Esk, only a couple of hours from Nanango.
Wreck rock, in the deepwater national park Queensland, Quiet, secluded, plenty of wildlife, swimming, fishing what more could you want.
The long secluded beaches are a nesting place for turtles, and sea birds a great place to visit for a few days.
This is our fourth time at Wreck rock, this year we decided that it would be our starting point for our discover Australia adventure, a bit hotter and windier than usual but never been disappointed with this place.
In previous years we have been in our old faithful camper trailer, this year upgraded both home and tow vehicle, there were plenty of sites to pick from but our favourites were taken, this park is a bit rustic with a long drop toilet and a cold shower, which I had to fix to make usable
As our friends will know we travel with our bird (Baby) a well travelled little girl, when we are at places like this we have to be careful of the natural inhabitants who dont always appreciate feathered visitors, this place has a population of sand Goannas, they don’t bother us but you have to be aware of them.
Sand goanna on the moveGiddy goanna hiding
The ocean this time was a bit wild, so swimming was a bit risky but we managed to find a few rock pools that were sheltered, there was not much beach fishing either this year but a couple persisted with no luck, we decided to just relax and enjoy mother ocean doing her thing.
After a week or so getting used to our new home we have decided to test the off grid features of the van, the destination Jourama falls was the closest but we were a bit aprehensive because the Townsville area has been very dry and there are plenty of fire warnings about, we have been to this park a few times and if there is no water flowing it is not all that pleasant.
So ten minutes after finding our camp spot annex out and roof up and rain, yes after weeks of dry dusty weather rain, being able to go to a campsite and bring rain is one of my many talents, but the scrub turkeys appreciated it and showed it by fighting for a place near us .
One of the things that really impressed us with this van is the very very comfortable king size bed, so because we could we settled in for our afternoon nap and listened to the light rain and get read to have our first night in the bush. I mentioned the scrub turkeys, and there were plenty, to me they have always been just harmless bird that survive on grubs, so I’m watching one wander through the leaf litter and a very large goanna arrived and tried to grab one, initially the bird took off, then turned on the lizard, what happened next really amazed me this bird turned on a display of aggression that would do an eagle proud, it chased the lizard around the park across the road and every time the goanna tried to turn on the bird it spread its wings and kept going at the lizard until it ran off up a hill and never returned
Anyway after that bit of excitement the camp got a bit quiet, except for the backpackers arriving late and leaving early, (before the ranger arives)so we packed up and moved on to our next destination, Ballenden Ker far north Queensland.