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Coonabarabran area

Pilliga pottery art
Pilliga pottery art

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Jourama falls North Queensland

First days off grid

Jourama falls

After a week or so getting used to our new home we have decided to test the off grid features of the van, the destination Jourama falls was the closest but we were a bit aprehensive because the Townsville area has been very dry and there are plenty of fire warnings about, we have been to this park a few times and if there is no water flowing it is not all that pleasant.

So ten minutes after finding our camp spot annex out and roof up and rain, yes after weeks of dry dusty weather rain, being able to go to a campsite and bring rain is one of my many talents, but the scrub turkeys appreciated it and showed it by fighting for a place near us .

First setup off grid for the SUV Hybrid van
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February/ March 2021 trip 1

First trip for the year Covid-19 has kept us quiet but we have slipped out for a few weeks

Loaded ready to go, fishing rods, golf clubs, and bird

It’s been a while since the last trip thanks to Covid-19, so the plan is head south visiting friends and relatives camping, fishing golfing

First stop Carmilla beach

We have stayed at Carmilla before pretty basic camping with the only facility being a toilets , access is easy just follow the road past the servo for about 14K and turn right at end of road.

there are a few areas to chose from a fairly easy shaded area for caravans and motor homes to sandy spots for camper trailers and tents.

There is creek and beach fishing at both ends of the camp area although one of these areas is 4X4 only, we did not have much luck fishing but put the crab pot in one night and had some luck

Carmilla beach is a pretty spot, not much to do just fish and relax.

Next stop Wreck rock


Located in Deepwater national park about 60k south of Town of 1770 wreck rock is one of two camping grounds in the NP the road to wreck rock is average and comes in from Baffle creek all except the last few kilometres is bitumen and the dirt stretch is not bad, to access the camp area is a sandy track and is ok for most vehicles.

Track in to camp area

The beach is a turtle nesting habitat and the nests are marked so that they are not disturbed

There are not a great many campsites and well distributed so not busy even on the weekend the camps were full and still remained quiet.

The local wildlife was a bit friendly and were obviously used to being around humans

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Feet on the beach

A small album of changes in the sand on our beach

I’m always looking for changes on our beach, almost every time we go for a walk something is different this time, while contemplating my feet I noticed the difference in the sand almost every time I moved.

Just a collection of the changes over time

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VALLEY OF LAGOONS CAMP 1st in 2020 (week before LOCKDOWN)

Valley of lagoons camping area🏕 one of our favourite places can’t wait to go back

There are a few ways to get to this place this time we chose the short route over the beautiful Mt Fox and then on to the dirt.

this is usually the rough way to get there but this time not so bad.

Valley of lagoons road at its best

Valley of Lagoons station

Valley of lagoons station looks spectacular we have never been here and not seen plenty of water in this large billlabong.

Alternate road from Greenvale

The Road traverses typical bush cattle country and then you go over the rise and you see why this is such a special part of Queensland

Photo from previous trip

After about 3 hours we arrived at the camping area, this is a large area that once a year hosts a bush cricket match, no shortage of space or quality camps we arrived here one year with our friends Wendy and Glen Christensen, (they were living in sin then but have since married in a wonderful white wedding in Canada) to find the 2 day cricket match in full flight and at least 500 people camping but the area is so spread out we drove in to a great campsite big enough for two camper trailers.This time though only 2 groups of campers but the river had had a fair bit of rain and we could not get to our favourite spot, but there are no bad spots here so set up camp on the river bank.

roast lamb and veg camp oven style

“Cool nights , peaceful, it does not get any better than this , quiet drink beside the fire while the roast lamb and veg cook in the camp ovens

There is plenty to see and places to explore but we know what’s coming and have to get back home.

As Arnie said we will be back

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Lake Tinaroo 5/02/2020

Well early morning and the mist is coming down and the ducks are settling in, I think Jacky may have left an enticement for these guys, they are not afraid of us just made themselves at home, it’s very quiet there is no other sound except the birds in the surrounding rainforest feel so lucky to be sharing their space

  • ©️Billkirkwood photography
  • Bill Kirkwood photography
  • ©️Billkirkwood photography
  • ©️Billkirkwood photography
  • ©️Billkirkwood photography
  • Billkirkwood photography

well some days it’s all about how the day starts and with views like these it’s hard not to feel good, so after the visitors ate us out of house and home we put the kayaks in and went for a paddle down the lake, came back had a swim then breakfast, bloody hectic being retired.

This trip I managed to smuggle the golf clubs in, so while Jacky rested and settled in with her book I drove in to Atherton for a game, the course is in terrific condition many too good as I decided to walk lush thick fairways make hard going on this hilly track but a good day.

Feeling pretty hot after my little walk so straight in to the water 💦 Jacky wanted to go and have a look around the lake so off for a paddle we pushed up through a bit of shallow water and found a waterfall emptying into the lakenot far from camp will take some pics tomorrow after we come back from Cairns

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Old cork station

We found old cork when we were looking for a remote campsite to visit in western Queensland, looking at a map of campsites there was this little icon that said “abandoned homestead” and while researching it we discovered that there was some history here and two of our friends had passed through when droving cattle many years ago, one of them Allan Carrigan had some stories to tell so we decided that this was a must see place, and I can say we have not been disappointed with the decision.

So through Winton on to Old Cork, there are a couple of roads that go to the area and we decided on the old Diamantina river road which eventually after over 400k joins the Quilpie Birdsville road and follows the Diamantina river all the way down to the channel country, as we got near the turnoff we spotted a road train moving cattle, I said to Jacky I’ll bet this one is going to turn off on the road we are and sure enough it did.

one of the things you can count on with the drivers of these large rigs is that they will always help you pass but you have to remember that they cannot get off the narrow dirt roads to do it, so I called him up on the radio and he directed us past on the up wind side.

The country through here is spectacular, flat plains mountain ranges and plenty of wide open space.

When we arrived at the homestead one of the first things we noticed was the birds so many species but first set up camp, there were already a couple of camps well set up but a good spot was not hard to find looking out over the waterhole

A couple of the camps appeared well set up and we found out that a couple had been there for 6 weeks and one couple had been there for 3 months as they apparently do.

The homestead

Old cork homestead must have been a sight to see when it was built in the early 1800s,beautiful sandstone and it appears laid by a mason or Someone experienced in laying these large blocks, the property was well grassed when we were there and you can imagine how the people that settled and built the house would have viewed their prospects of a prosperous cattle property the house was inhabited until 1980 and then abandoned and a new home base set up on what is now new cork closer to Winton. The water here is the key though and what is now the road was used as a main droving route from New South Wales to the Northern Territory because it is said that the waterhole has never been seen dry in white mans time, in fact while we were there a heard of cattle was watering there while being pushed north.

Exploring

we decided to explore the road south, you can drive all the way to South Australia if the mood takes you but we went about 200k down the track to where the Diamantina and the Georgina fiver join to form the Warburton, this is a very important river system and I will insert a piece from Britinaca with some stats “ theDiamantina River and the Georgina River (from the north) merge to drain along the channel of Warburton Creek southwestward to Lake Eyre. The Diamantina’s principal tributaries are the Western and Mayne rivers. The Diamantina’s average annual discharge at Birdsville is 890 cubic feet (25 cubic m) per second, ranging from 50,000 cubic feet (1,400 cubic m) per second in flood to nothing in dry years.” The trip is a bit long but plenty of history, like the pub with an underground cooler/cellar (no ice out here) built in 1835 to meet the needs of thirsty drovers billabongs, birds it’s just a great drive.

Homeward bound

well after over a week we have to move on it’s starting to warm up and the flies have found old cork station, we have taken a different road out and soon arrive in Winton spending the night here to humanise again, Winton like most of the outback towns are really embracing the travellers the town is busy and the hotels are making the most of it we are booked into a van park and had dinner at one of the pubs, great meals great service first beer in 8 days. Next leg of the trip home is the last we call in at Hughenden for lunch at the FJ Holden cafethen home

This is a trip we will definitely do again

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Jericho central west queensland

Jericho is at a three ways, east to Biloela, west to Barcaldine south to Blackall not a big place population about 115, Jericho is one of Western Queensland’s old towns that is gradually shrinking not a lot to see has a pub, Main Street the smallest drive in theatre and a well used camp ground.

During the tourist season the camp ground gets busy and at times I imagine that a riverside campsite would be hard to get but we fitted in ok and even though it was dry the weather was good nice and cool with plenty of friendly people, there was nothing to catch in the river but was good for a few days of paddling aril did watching the wildlife

we stayed here about a week, filled in time kayaking, bushwalking and visited the cemetery and discovered that Jericho has been here for a while and with some characters it would seem

After Jericho we moved on to Barcaldine for morning tea and then to longreach to top up the groceries.

Next town Winton but fuel stop and straight through to our destination Old cork station

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Kroombit tops national park

We were looking for a place to visit in central Queensland that would be cool have a place to put the kayaks in for a paddle, not crowded and quiet, so we asked mr google and he found us Kroombit tops national park the web site showed all the things we were looking for so off we went.

There are three roads leading in to this NP one from Calliope one from Monto and the one from Biloela, I would suggest that if you have a small van or trailer you steer clear of the latter, we went for a drive on this track and it was rough there is a sign that bans trailers on it and with good reason, mind you there are no smooth roads in this NP, this photo does not do the road justice you are either looking down on the bonnet, or up at the skyundefined

The camping area was great short grass we only had a few neighbours and none of them close but the creek was dry not a drop of water in it.

There is plenty to see and do here tracks to explore, lookouts, plenty of photo opportunities, the old bomber wreckage the wildlife.

One of the things we miss in the north is cold weather both Jacky and I are always looking for the opportunity to visit somewhere that’s we can sit around a campfire on a cold night, and at Kroombit tops we certainly got that one morning we woke up to find our gear and car covered in ice.

we stayed at Kroombit NP for about a week before heading down to civilisation at Biloela, and then on to Jericho.

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The August triP (Notch point)

As with most trips we had a basic plan some plans change but nothing like this, the original plan was to head south for a bit then go over to Tambo and then to a camp at Carnarvon national park, then many on to somewhere out west, but first on to Notch point, a friend in Mackay suggested this camp, we have passed the turnoff many times but never ventured in.

The turn off is at Ilbilbi about 45k south of Mackay then another 20k further in to a Gare and it’s all dirt from there, there are confusing tracks but most lead to the point and those that don’t are signed private. It’s a good plan to check tide times as there are two spots that can have water over them so until you see how they are it’s best for the first time go at low tide if possible, the track is not bad we saw some quite large vans there

All in all a great spot fishing was good plenty of firewood no mosquitoes or sand flies, but summer may change that no noisy campers plenty to do and a bit to see in the area, we stayed here for a week and decided to move on to Stanage bay

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Urbenville New south wales revisited

This is our second visit to Urbenville NSW. We are staying at the forestry rest area on the road to Woodenbong. It is our preferred campground. As it happens, it is the only one available because the showgrounds are still closed due to very wet conditions.

In 2024 we had the place to ourselves, the weather was fine and cool and the facilities were clean and well maintained

2025 was definitely different. The weather was wet as it had been every month since January. The grounds here are very wet and boggy in a few places.

Which is a shame the camp grounds are well set out and a postcard pretty. When we arrived there were no other campers so we had the pick of the sites, and as it got wetter the choices diminished quickly. We like this little village, but it has changed from our last visit. You get the feel of neglect. The facilities at the campground were not usable. They had not been cleaned in a long while. It was the same with the public toilets in town. We stayed a few days then moved on to Woodenbong, about 20k down the road to dry out.

Exploring Lismore’s Art and Recovery Post-Flood

Lismore! A beautiful slightly alternate town in the Northern rivers district of New South Wales, I! The residents are probably the most resilient in the country. Floods are the nemesis of this town. There have been many in the town’s history. At the time of this post being written, the town is being inundated again. The really sad thing is that they have not really recovered from the last two.

The original part of town is built on a flood plain. Later development has migrated to higher ground. Still, there are thousands of residents who have property in the old part of town. The Wilson river is the culprit at flood time. It flows into the Richmond. The river finishes at Ballina on the coast.

These rivers once carried the produce and timber from the farming areas around Lismore. In the early days, they were essential for transport. Now, the flooding river renders the lower part of the town almost useless for very long periods. Jacky and I lived in Alstonville about 30klm from Lismore, we shopped there and really enjoyed the quirky alternate vibe of the town, we last visited there in 2023 a year after the last flood again from a cyclone like the current one “Alfred” that drifted further south than normal, the photos that are in this post are from that time

After the flood in 2022, the NSW government decided to buy back houses and businesses that were regularly flooded. Nonetheless, at the time of writing, this has not been completed. This is the second flood since then, and there are still residents trying to get suitable housing replacement.

Lismore and the residents are a resilient lot. While we were there this time (2023), it was clear that the area was suffering. There was so much unemployment and many despondent homeless residents waiting for government decisions. The local council decided that the dingy graffitied areas of the town needed a lift. They employed local and international artists to transform the back alleys into an art gallery. Now, that area attracts many tourists to view the artwork.

We were to be in the Northern rivers again this week, but Cyclone Alfred has delayed our plans. I’m looking ahead to visiting Lismore again. We will visit the cafes, restaurants, and shops. Hopefully, not too much damage has been done this time. I am keen to see if the mess from 2022/23 has been cleaned up. The abandoned homes, schools, and businesses were a sad thing to witness. Yet, Lismore will recover. As travelers, we can do our little bit to put a few dollars back into this great community.

WE will be back here in a couple of week Lismore 2025 coming up. If you are a traveler and are near Lismore, give it a crack. You can find time to divert there. There is plenty to see, with some of the best markets in the country close by.

Cheers

Exploring 1770 Beach Campgrounds: A Traveler’s Tale

The towns of 1770 and Agnes Waters offer more than just a couple of novelty stores. There are surf shops, chemists, and two grocery stores. You can also find fishing and boating options. There is even a golf club that provides a good challenge. The weather really dictated our activities. We spent most of our time reading and relaxing. When the weather permitted, we walked the foreshore. On one of these short walks, I started out wandering through the little cafe at the park entrance. I found myself in a group of mangroves. It was interesting to view the surrounding sand flats through the windows created by the gaps in the mangroves. Well, I thought so. Trying to photograph those scenes was challenging. It was more difficult than I thought because the camera tends to flatten the perspective. Photographing did fill the day.

That was our 2025 1770/Agnes Waters visit. Would we go back to the same camp grounds? Maybe, but we did enjoy ourselves. The rain has apparently moved on, so we are heading to Alstonville to catch up with friends. We also plan to reconnect with one of our special places.

Wreck rock, high tides and plastic

Wreck rock 2025

Today we are sitting at Gympie waiting for cyclone Alfred to make up its mind about landfall and an apt time to publish this post as there will be plenty of debris created on our beaches.

Another visit to one of our favourite places Wreck rock, our fifth time here, in the very wonderful Endeavour national park Queensland, there are three camp areas here looking north towards Agnes waters is Flat rock and Middle rock and here we are at Wreck rock again. The weather has not been as kind this time as it has been just a bit of wind and some higher than usual tides, as usual the camp area is great very clean not so crowded only a couple of others and some day trippers, and the ever-present lace monitors.

We were here this time for a 8 days and I must say that the first time we were here I did not notice the problem that I am about to introduce you to but this is not a new thing here Im sure. IApart from the National parks the area is under the not so watchful eye of the Gladstone shire and maybe a bit of the Burnett region; The beaches and sand dunes on this stretch of coast are nursery for the green back and flat back turtles, so there are Turtle monitoring stations all along the beaches, and I have to say that this is the first time that we have been here and not had the volunteer’s camped here to monitor the nests.

This area is also the start of the real surfing beaches north of the New South Wales border in Queensland,  so as well as the National parks rangers and the Turtle monitoring people there are plenty of surfers from Agnes waters to Bundaberg as well as travellers using the beaches.

So by now you are wondering what is this bloke getting to, well i’ll be blunt

the beaches that I mentioned at the start are THE MOST POLLUTED BEACHES THAT I HAVE SEEN in our travels around our great country. Not only polluted , but mistreated by most who visit here, on this visit I met a man who not only loves the area he actively cleans it up, which is more than I can say for most of the others I have previously mentioned.

The pollution I am talking about is Plastic and plenty of it, every day there is a new batch deposited by the high tide to collect not just a handful but bags fill  , the photos are what we,  Jim and I collected in about six days and from only around 300 METERS of beach, 

I would like to apologise  on behalf of Jim and I for only getting to such a small area but I am a few days short of seventy seven and Jim looks likes he shades me by a few years and its been hot. But what about the regulars, well according to a ranger that Jim spoke to the “beach” is not National Parks responsibility, more on that a bit later, on to the turtle nest monitors, I may be tarring a few people with the same brush here but this is my experience, last trip 2022 after myself and a couple of young campers had collected a few bags of rubbish, that the “turtle nest monitors had been driving there buggies through “ for a few days we were trying to dig out this very large piece of rope that had some trawl net around it, obviously buried by the high tide, we had excavated a fairly large hole in the sand around it but it was to heavy for three of us to pull out, the nest watchers were coming back from their watching and we tried to get the first buggy to stop: No go, one of the young men helping all but threw himself in front of the next one and with a lot of complaining  I think the wine and bickies were out,  he let us tie it to the buggy and we got half a trawl net out of the hole, he left us to get it to a place where it would not get washed back and could be retrieved.

Jim told me a similar story of last year where he had put four bags of plastic rubbish next to the park track, he had asked the ranger if he could dispose of it, ( sorry no can’t do that) but the ranger asked the turtle people to help, and they did but Jim got a lecture from one of them saying that they should not have to do this.

To the users of the beach and ocean, some of this group has saddened me this week, first to travellers, I was walking down to start collecting from the high tide on the first day and passed a couple of young English tourists camping here, a brief chat and I told them what I was doing and the young lass said Oh good we have collected a lot of plastic bottles and rubbish and put it on the path for the ranger, bonus lovely people, but the locals, the surfers so disappointing, on the weekend a few of the Agnes Waters surfers were here to catch a wave, day one crap surf, so we were talking about the area and the lack of waves,  I told them about how much plastic we had picked up and that there was so much more,  very small bits floating in the tide line:  So I asked them both if they would help with the plastic collection as it was their beach, surfer 1 said yes we see lots of the small bits out in the water all the time  “its not good”, surfer 2 nods his head and says, you know there is a bit of a wave just near the rocks what do you think, and off they went to flounder around in a 2 foot chop.

Day two about half a dozen board riders ( not surfers) joined the other two, no takers on the clean up but their girlfriends who had a shade cover managed to bury their rubbish including two plastic bags in the sand below the high tide mark.

Jim and I will finish our stay here this afternoon by once again walking the tide line and picking up what we can, but this is not about people looking after the ocean and the beach, this stuff comes from the rivers and creeks around here and is deposited on this great beach,  that is about 50 kilometres long and no one appears to be  caring, not the council, not the National parks not the turtle people who cannot grasp the fact that when the turtles hatch they have to fight or eat their way past this crap, and the people who use the beach and Mother ocean for their pleasure don’t seem to care or give back

Its definitely not about people like Jim and I, It should be about you and others who don’t walk past a plastic bag or an old plastic oil bottle or drink bottle, or see a problem where plastic waste can be washed out to sea and end up on a deserted beach like this to break down in to the smallest pretty shiny colourful most harmful lure that the ocean can present to its occupants.

As Jim said to me this morning If you won’t participate, don’t talk about it, If you get to this bit and come to the conclusion that I’m just another nutter that overreacts to this type of issue, just delete the link and let me know that you have and you definitely won’t get another rant from me.

Enjoy life BK 

Exploring Kauri Creek Campground and Cooktown

The Endeavour river on a good day is spectacular, when Cook visited it would have been pristine with only the local Aboriginal community and the endeavour crew to appreciate the beauty of the river and surrounding rainforest; There is a thought invoking plaque in the town park near the river that tells of the struggle, and the eventual truce between Cook and the locals, it seems that the locals were a bit cranky with Cook for stealing some of their property. (old Australian aboriginal proverb, “if you want to use our wood to fix your ship don’t steal our stuff”) Anyway, back to the river, a walk along early in the morning or afternoon really shows of the colours of the river, the council has done a marvellous job of making sure that you can get the best of it, great walking/bike path take you to the best viewing places, plenty of signs and information of the area history

Innisfail Far north Queensland

Innisfail Far North Queensland, this quirky town is one of Australia’s best examples of multiple art deco architecture in Australia; rebuilt after a devastating cyclone in March 1918.
The photos here are a small selection of the houses and buildings built in the restoration of the town.

I have keep saying that I am going to do this every time we come to the area, so camera in hand late on a Sunday afternoon I set off in to Innisfail to try to capture the essence of this great far north Queensland town. Situated on the Johnstone river about 100K south of Cairns, Innisfail rests in lush Banana and sugarcane country, amazing tropical rain forests and close coral reefs and the quirky art deco architecture are some of the reasons we keep coming back.

Innisfail is not the coolest place in Queensland any night over 18deg at any time of the year is unusual, lots of rain and the occasional cyclone; In 2006 category 5 cyclone larry devastated Innisfail causing millions of dollars in damage and loss of business to town and farming communities for many kilometres from the centre


I had cause to travel through the area a week after the event and the town, rain forest and farming area were almost unrecognisable. But sometimes these events shape a community, the town has been rebuilt after Larry, but a previous cyclone that did more damage made Innisfail the quirky art deco museum it is today. A huge cyclone swept through Innisfail on 10 March 1918, causing immense damage and killing many people.Buildings destroyed included the Anglican Church and the Methodist Church. So many buildings were severely damaged, that many new buildings were erected after the cyclone using concrete rather than the more traditional timber with tin roof. As Art Deco architecture was popular at that time, many of the new buildings were built in the Art Deco style. As a result, Innisfail is now considered one of the best Australian towns for Art Deco and Streamline Moderne architecture.

The Johnstone river flows through the town, a large river with plenty of its own history, the town is only about three kilometres from the ocean with a good harbour and deep water you will usually see fishing boats from many different ports either at anchor or tied up at the fisherman’s wharf.

  • Fishing boats

Walking around the town on a Sunday evening, the lack of people, the light changing very quickly I think suited the building designs, I hope that I have done justice to this beautiful historical town.

Anzac day 2024

Alstonville to Burren Junction